Fabric 101: How to Choose the Right Fabric for Your Project

Every great project starts with the right foundation, and when you’re working with fabric, that foundation is your material selection.

At Little Cocalico, we help designers, makers, businesses and creative hobbyists choose fabrics that don’t just look beautiful, but also perform the way they’re intended. From custom home décor to quilts, apparel, accessories and handcrafted products, selecting the right fabric is what gives a finished project its longevity, function and overall quality.

With dozens of fabric bases available, it can be difficult to know where to start. This guide covers the key characteristics to consider, common mistakes to avoid and our recommended fabrics for some of the most popular creative projects.

Start With the End Result in Mind

It’s easy to fall in love with a beautiful print, but choosing fabric should always start with function. Thinking through how your finished project will be used will quickly narrow your options and help ensure you’re happy with the final result.

Here’s some helpful questions to ask yourself when choosing the fabric for your project:

• Does it need stretch or should it hold its shape?
• Will it receive frequent use or occasional use?
• Does it need to be soft, structured or somewhere in between?
• Will it need to stand up to repeated washing?
• Does the pattern or project call for a knit or woven fabric?

If a knit is needed, think about how much stretch it requires and consider how durable the finished project needs to be. For example, an everyday outfit has very different requirements than curtains hanging in your home.

Five Fabric Characteristics to Consider

While every project has unique requirements, evaluating these five characteristics will help you compare fabrics with confidence and understand why one option may perform better than another.

Durability

Think about how the finished project will be used. Upholstery, tote bags, children’s clothing and frequently used home décor all benefit from fabrics that can handle everyday wear.

Weight

Fabric weight affects both appearance and function. Lightweight fabrics create soft, flowing garments, while heavier fabrics provide the structure needed for bags, upholstery and certain home décor projects. You wouldn’t choose a heavyweight linen for a beach cover-up, just as you wouldn’t use a lightweight, flowy fabric to recover a sofa.

Stretch

Stretch is especially important for apparel and other projects that need flexibility and movement. Choosing the wrong amount of stretch can completely change the fit and function of the finished piece.

Drape

Some fabrics flow naturally while others maintain crisp structure. Think about whether you want your finished project to hang softly, hold its shape or provide extra support.

Care Requirements

Consider how often the item will be washed or cleaned. Everyday clothing, bedding and children’s items typically benefit from fabrics that are durable and easy to care for.

We took an in-depth look at fabric characteristics earlier in this blog series. See Fabric 101: Fabric Characteristics for more.

Common Fabric Selection Mistakes

One of the biggest mistakes people make is choosing fabric based on appearance alone. While color and print are important, the fabric’s weight, stretch, durability and intended use should always come first. Another common mistake is selecting the wrong fabric type for the project.

Taking a few extra minutes to match your material to the project’s requirements can save time, frustration and wasted fabric later. If you’re working from a sewing pattern, follow its recommended fabric types whenever possible. Those recommendations are designed to help the finished piece fit, drape and perform as intended.

The Best Fabric for Children’s Apparel

Children’s clothing has to work hard. The best fabrics are comfortable enough for all-day wear while standing up to active play and frequent washing.

If you’re wanting knit fabric for children’s clothing, we recommend:

• Organic Cotton Spandex
• Organic Lightweight Cotton Spandex
• Organic Cotton Interlock
• Cotton Spandex French Terry
• Large Box Thermal

Organic Cotton Spandex and Lightweight Cotton Spandex work beautifully for dresses, T-shirts and leggings thanks to their comfortable stretch. Organic Cotton Interlock offers more structure, making it a great option for dresses, tops and pants that don’t require as much stretch. For cozy lounge sets and pajamas, Cotton Spandex French Terry and Large Box Thermal are customer favorites.

If your children’s clothing project calls for woven fabrics, Poplin, Double Gauze and Kona Cotton are all excellent choices for dresses, overalls and tops.

The Best Fabric for Quilting

Quilting fabrics should be stable, easy to cut and piece, and durable enough to last for generations. Consistency in weight and weave also makes quilting more enjoyable and helps blocks come together accurately.

The best fabrics for quilting include:

• Kona Cotton
• Sateen
• Poplin
• Organic Brushed Cotton

Kona Cotton continues to be Little Cocalico’s most popular quilting fabric thanks to its quality, versatility and long-standing reputation among quilters.

The Best Fabric for Clothing

Every garment has its own requirements. The same fabric that creates a flowing summer dress may not provide enough structure for a button-down shirt, making fabric selection just as important as the pattern itself.

For dresses Organic Cotton Spandex, Lightweight Cotton Spandex, Modal and Rayon Challis all provide beautiful movement and comfortable wear. For shirts, Organic Cotton Interlock works well when stretch is needed, while Poplin and Sateen are excellent choices for woven styles.

Skirts pair well with Organic Cotton Interlock, Lightweight Linen, Poplin and Kona Cotton depending on the desired structure and silhouette. For pajamas and loungewear, Cotton Spandex French Terry, Organic French Terry and Large Box Thermal offer exceptional softness and comfort.

The Best Fabric for Home Decor

Home décor projects often need to strike a balance between beauty and performance. Depending on the application, you may want a fabric that hangs gracefully, provides added structure or holds up to everyday use.

For pillows, curtains, table linens and other decorative accents, consider:

• Linen Cotton Canvas
• Sailcloth Canvas
• Natural Linen Cotton Blend
• Lightweight Linen

Each offers unique characteristics, allowing you to choose the right amount of structure, texture and drape for your project.

The Best Fabric for Bedding

Softness matters, but so does choosing fabrics that continue to look and feel great after repeated washing. Thankfully there’s fabric options that offer both of these aspects.

Brushed Cotton is an excellent choice for sheets and pillowcases thanks to its soft feel and long-lasting durability. Double Gauze also creates wonderfully soft crib sheets. For duvet covers, Organic Sateen and Brushed Cotton provide both comfort and everyday performance.

The Best Fabric for Bags and Accessories

Unlike apparel, bags need fabrics that provide structure while holding up to the weight of everyday essentials. Choosing a stronger fabric helps prevent stretching, sagging and premature wear.

Our customers typically choose between two fabrics for bags and accessories:

• Sailcloth Canvas
• Linen Cotton Canvas

Originally engineered for ship sails, Sailcloth Canvas is known for its exceptional strength and durability, making it the most popular choice for sewn bags and accessories.

For bag linings, Kona Cotton and Sateen provide smooth, durable interiors.

The Best Fabrics for Craft Projects

Craft projects cover a wide range of applications, so versatility is often the most valuable quality. Fabrics that can easily transition from decorative pieces to functional projects give makers more creative flexibility.

Canvas or linen fabrics are excellent all-around options for wall hangings, home décor, organizers, accessories and other creative projects. Their durability and timeless look make them favorites for both hobbyists and professional makers.

Still Not Sure? Sample Before Committing

Sometimes the best way to choose is to experience the fabrics in person. 

Even after comparing specifications online, nothing replaces seeing and feeling a fabric in your hand. Texture, weight and drape are much easier to evaluate firsthand, making it easier to choose confidently before placing a larger order.

Ordering a fabric sample pack or custom printed sample squares allows you to compare weight, texture, drape and structure before committing to a larger purchase. Whether you’re new to custom fabric or simply deciding between a few options, seeing and feeling each fabric firsthand makes choosing the right material much easier.

With a little planning and the right fabric, you’ll set your project up for success from the very beginning.